Produce from the market |
The Dodoma trip cancellation was particularly unfortunate because the rain was not a factor on the roads per se. But on the weekend before we left, the Area Reps. (who have been in town last week to see our projects) were out on a hike. Laura slipt on some rocks because of mud and broke her wrist. She had to have it surgically set at KCMC in Moshe. We cancelled our trip with them that week and they headed home after some recuperation. Sadly, upon being X-rayed in Kenya, it was determined she would have to have it surgically redone because it was not set properly in Tanzania. (Another cautionary tale about the medical system here.) I have heard that the second time went well and she is recuperating nicely.
The second trip was one we were planning to leave for next week, but given the amount of rain we contacted our partners in the Serengeti region which has virtually no paved roads and asked about our chances of getting around without major delay. They told us the roads were very bad, and we have decided to reschedule for some time in the dry season.
The rain and the tilt of the earth are making it feel cooler here, and apparently temperatures will continue to drop through July. Swimming is already getting quite cold even though we are more acclimatized. It is often raining when we go and last week I swam in one such torrential downpour that made it even hard to tell if I had tilted my head out of the water to breathe or not.
The kids have been on their two and a half week term break and Rebecca and I cannot wait for them to go back to school. She has been doing most of the childcare during the day, although I took a turn on Monday this past week so she could do some work.
We have also had some exciting adventures worth chronicling as well, so I am handing the computer over to Rebecca to tell about a special Birthday and the arrival of a visitor.
This is Rebecca:
We have probably mentioned that we have a woman who comes
to clean our house twice a week. She is a very cheerful and sweet person, as
well as a very efficient worker, who doesn’t need a lot of direction. And
that’s good, because most of the time, she comes and goes while we are at work,
and so we don’t see each other that much.
She has long wanted to invite us to come to her house,
but I must confess, we didn’t immediately snap up the opportunity. I guess
after six years in Burundi, we found that we were reticent to jump into
patronage relationships too quickly. If you’ve lived in Africa, you probably
know what I’m talking about. This time around, I wanted to build the
relationship more slowly, make sure we were staying in this neighborhood,
keeping her on as an employee, etc. In any case, we have really grown to
appreciate Nai, and always breathe a sigh of relief on Mondays and Fridays when
we come home to a clean, orderly, spotless home. I enjoy sharing conversation
in Swahili with her on the few days when we have some overlap. She has a very
positive attitude towards life and I’m grateful for how she helps us.
In any case, a few weeks ago, she invited us to come help
celebrate her oldest daughter’s 8th birthday at her home. It was a
great arrangement for us since it fell on a weekday evening during our school
break. Nai asked if I would bring a cake, since she doesn’t have an oven in
which to bake one. So, on Wednesday, David and I baked a layer cake out of
Betty Crocker. Oren helped with sugar cookies. And on Thursday, Oren helped me
to decorate my very first pink birthday cake (being a boy mamma), with pink
icing and pastel colored Mentos. In fact, David had been invited to a
schoolmate’s party for the early afternoon, so he and Paul met us at Nai’s house
separately after work.
Nai’s husband, Abraham, is a gardener on the base where
we live, so he met us at our house and we drove all through the compound,
across the private bridge, up the hill, through a gate, along the dirt road
past the Joshua Foundation school and then along another dirt road about 1.5
km. We arrived at their house at the most glorious hour of the early evening,
and they were very happy to show us around. Nai and Abraham built their house
together after they got married and they have taken a lot of initiative to make
it a nice place. They have two large rainwater collection tanks, as well as a
tank in the ground – very wise for dry season. They are raising chickens and
rabbits to sell and have a variety of fruit trees in their yard. They tend
maize fields just outside their compound. Their house is built of cinder blocks
and pretty big for a village house, with a good strong tin roof – they are just
saving up to put in ceiling boards. Their three kids (8, 5 and 2) were happy to
run around with the neighbor kids and David, looking at everything and poking
the rabbits.
These kinds of cross-cultural visits are much more
challenging for our older son, but he has become more mature and polite about
it, and just quietly sits and observes and tries not to be too awkward. Nai
cooked some very delicious pilau (rice cooked with meat and spices) and a meat
stew. Then we sang for Lidya and shared cake and sugar cookies. Everyone seemed
to really enjoy having special sweets, and Lidya was happy about receiving some
gifts.
Later we took a little stroll through this village area
in the perfect late afternoon light. First, we went to visit the neighbor cow,
belonging to Mama Jackie, who supplies our fresh milk (we only met Mama Jackie
later on our return journey, a widow and mother of four, who is doing her best
to make ends meet). The sun was gleaming across the river on the hillside, Mt.
Meru was perfectly clear and glorious, and we couldn’t stop walking. It has
been raining torrentially and often, and so a clear afternoon was a real treat.
So we visited another neighboring farm, and accidently met the owners, a much
more well-off family, investing in roaster chickens and lots of other kitchen
garden stuff. They also have cows who produce 10L of milk per milking, but I
feel better supporting Mama Jackie.
We headed back to Nai’s house and the cars as the sun was
setting, and Oren was saying, “Come on, mom! We need to go!” But, being
relational has its own sense of timing, and it was almost dark as we got in the
cars. We drove back the way we had come…and found the gate to the Joshua
foundation locked.
Now, this was a problem because we had come across the
river on the private bridge. And we weren’t sure where the next bridge was. I
knew there was a nearby bridge suitable for motorcycles, but not for cars.
Google maps pointed us down the road farther, assuring us we would be home in 6
minutes. We drove on and looked down the narrow, dark slope heading to the
river – with no car tire tracks marking it. I sent Oren down to do
reconnaissance (and to get his complaining voice, saying “I told you so!!!” out
of my ears), and meanwhile I asked some passing children about the way forward.
They told me, “well, there’s a way, but you’ll never find it without someone showing
you!” And just at that moment a man came strolling up, learned of our problem
and said, “Let me show you.”
So he got in the car and we drove another 20 minutes
through very muddy slippery roads, across the muddy foundation of the new East
Africa highway that’s being built near us, down and around, fishtailing here
and there. And finally, FINALLY, he led us back out to the tarmac main road
that we knew. And then we drove him all the way back down the other side of the
river to nearer our neighborhood. As he got out of the car, Oren said, “That
was a really nice man.” And I replied, “He was more like an angel helping us
out of a really tough spot!” (and I had told the man as much in Swahili when he
left us). We were back home five minutes later and as we entered our house, I
had to confess to Paul, “I enjoyed EVERY MINUTE of that experience!!” That was
an afternoon of really living in Tanzania.
On Friday, the boys and I had our first dental visit in
Arusha with Dr. Tanya, who is apparently trained in Macedonia. She seems very
good to me and has good equipment. She talked quite a lot about how she needs
to treat teeth differently in this context because of the problems of excess fluoride.
In fact, the water that comes out of our resident volcanic mountain, Mt. Meru,
contains extremely high levels of fluoride. Even the fruits and vegetables that
are grown here contain a lot of fluoride, so filtering one’s drinking water is
not the only solution. In the US, we often add fluoride to our water to help
prevent cavitites. But here, there is a public health problem called fluorosis.
Many people who grow up in the Arusha area have badly stained teeth, and
children often experience stunting, when they are exposed to too much fluoride
at a young age. Our kids are old enough that it shouldn’t be a problem, and
most of our drinking water is rainwater, harvested from our roof. But we won’t
be putting any sealants on their teeth.
Later in the afternoon, we joined a group of expat
families at TGT, a club on the other end of town. It was the first time we had
ever visited the place, which has a pool, exercise facilities, restaurant, playground,
a series of big fields where people gather to play soccer and rugby on Friday
evenings. It was another lovely evening free of rain, and our purpose for
gathering was to help welcome the Cameron family who have just arrived in
Arusha. They will be working to restart Young Life clubs in the international
schools (and here is more about the teen ministry of Young Life).
Our kids are younger than the ones they will be intentionally reaching out to,
but we still want to be part of supporting their new life and ministry here.
We didn’t stay for dinner with others there, because we
needed to be home to welcome a special guest later that evening. Julie, my
cousin Colette’s daughter, is nearly finished with Med School in New York City
and had a few months free before graduation. She decided that she would like to
broaden her experience of medicine and the world and come to visit us. She
found an opportunity to observe/volunteer at a local hospital in Arusha and
will just be living life alongside us for the next two weeks. It’s been very
fun to have her here and to get to know her better as an adult (in the past, we
just spent time with her at big family gatherings where there wasn’t as much time
to really talk and get to know one another).
On her first afternoon, I decided to take Julie to the
central market area of town. We worked on getting some extra keys cut for her
and then headed into the market proper to see the sights. It’s always wonderful
and intimidating to walk between rows of beautiful fresh avocados and bananas,
on into the wonderful aromas of cardamom and pepper in the spice aisles, past
grain sacks full of tiny dried fish (which don’t smell quite as appetizing) and
back into the area of stalls selling household goods. We were able to find
string for a Sunday school craft Paul wanted to do the next day. And then we
found a smaller wooden spoon for kitchen use (the one we had was about 2 feet
long, for making ugali). And finally we started shopping for produce. I was
really happy with the beautiful broccoli and Chinese cabbage, as well as red
peppers, carrots and other things.
In the process, a young teenager came up and was very
assertively poking me and taking my bag to help me carry it and guide me
around. I didn’t much appreciate the way in which he completely glommed on to
us, but there was really nothing for it: you pretty much have to take on
someone as your porter, so he was as good as the next kid. He led us further on
in our search of tasty tiny bananas, mangoes, papaya and other fruit. I just
said out loud, “Now, the last thing we need is tomatoes…” and some other kid
was thrusting tomatoes into my face. It was quite funny! There were some less
pretty moments as we headed out of the market. At one point, it looked like our
teenage porter was about to bolt across the street with all our produce; in
fact he was just running into traffic in order to look at a wedding procession
passing by. When we got to the car, he started asking for a lot more money to
pay for all the plastic bags he had (unnecessarily) added to hold my veggies. I
gave him a tip 4 times what he had first asked for, but he was still not happy
and was trying to block my way into the car. Anyway, we were able to leave
eventually without a fight. So it was all the good and bad of the market:
wonderful fresh produce to take home, a good workout for my Swahili, and
complete mental exhaustion at the end! Julie really enjoyed the experience I
think, and I will keep taking visitors there to have the experience with me.
But I don’t think I’m quite ready to make it a weekly trip.
Another wonderful part of Julie’s visit has been the ways
she has reminded us of family traditions we share. She brought along a couple
of decks of cards and taught us how to play “Spite and Malice,” a game I now
clearly remember playing with the Sack grandparents. I’m so glad to know the
rules again now, and David can play it just as well as any of us at this point.
Our kids are really enjoying have her around, and it’s also a blessing that
she’s eager to help us cook, wash dishes and do other things around the house.
Bonus Photo: This is something amazing that the rain did to a pile of constuction sand in the parking lot at church. If you read the entry last month about our trip to Iringa and the gigantic amazing natural pillars we saw, you'll appreciate this. These are miniature natural pillars formed in exactly the same way!! The rain washed away the sand under the small rocks and left little pillars. They are about 2-3 inches tall compared to the ones that were several hundred feet in Iringa, but the landscape of them looks the same!
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