Paul and Rebecca Mosley in Tanzania
Friday, June 28, 2024
Saturday, July 3, 2021
The second ascent...the mountain of moving
Nay's family came to visit |
So, the week after our big hike, we had a lot of work to catch up on, as is the way of things when you take a week of vacation. Paul had many hours of online meetings, finalizing things in many of our food security projects. We were so grateful for our new Food Security Programs Manager in Addis, Mesfin, who kept everything rolling while we were away.
Irene at open house |
Open House |
On Saturday, we decided that we needed to invite a variety of friends to come to an open house so that we would have a final time of sharing and farewells with them. We remain grateful for the covered veranda on our house, where we could safely sit with friends in the fresh air. Many dear friends from church came to spend some time.
About halfway through the afternoon, Oren started getting dressed up to go to his Year 11 Graduation dinner. The IGCSE exams are considered a big deal in the Cambridge system, and the end of one key stage of education. A number of students will be going on to other schools next year, even university.
Parents were not invited, and so probably the kids had even more fun together! When Paul and I had cleaned up from our party, around 9 pm, we set off to go pick up Oren across town. A few minutes along the dark, sparsely populated East Africa bypass we suddenly spotted a couple of young men running into the road and violently waving arms and shovels. They were basically blocking our lane, and at first, it seemed like they might be in need of help, but then we realized they were most likely hijackers. Paul swerved around them and gunned it. It was over quickly, we were fine, but we came back home by the busy roads through town. We subsequently heard about the murder of a motorcycle taxi driver from the neighborhood on that road on Friday night. It was a good reminder that even sleepy Arusha is not always safe after dark.Sunday was officially the “farewell Sunday” for us at church. Several people are leaving together with us, and sadly, they all seem to be key musicians at church. Our little church choir met once the week before to prepare a few songs – great to sing together once more. And I offered the sermon that Sunday – about how storms can sweep in on us at any time, even when we are faithfully following Jesus. We feel a bit like this, with COVID and the loss of our job in Arusha. But we know so many friends who are dealing with serious illness or strife in their families, through no fault of their own. Many of them need the comfort of knowing that Jesus is with them in the boat. After church, we enjoyed one final actual bible study with our family bible study group. They have meant so much to us as a foundation and support over the past three years. And then we headed home to make sure all was ready for… Secondary Activities week!
Oren was off at 5:45 am to catch a bus at school and head to the coast. He and 5 others in his class joined a younger grade for a week at a beautiful eco-resort on the Indian ocean. They paddled kayaks into a mangrove swamp, took a boat trip to a sand island, went snorkeling and played a lot of cards and other games. I was particularly grateful that his oldest and most faithful school friend, Abraham, joined him on that trip.
Here is what Oren has to say about it, taken by dictation: “The trip was pretty nice. We went to the beach with my friends. We went snorkeling in a mangrove forest off kayaks. In the afternoon, we were riding on an inflatable hot dog pulled by a speedboat. We also went snorkeling in a coral reef. I saw a moray eel and an octopus. At high tide, we were able to jump off a very high jetty. The only downside was the long 12-hour bus ride back and forth each way.”
David didn’t leave until Tuesday morning – they needed Monday at school to practice setting up tents and getting ready for a real camping trip. He and 24 of his classmates piled into safari vehicles and spent 3 nights in the Ngorongoro conservation area. The main goal of the trip was to learn more about some of the smaller, indigenous tribal groups of Tanzania, including the hunter-gatherer Hadzabe people. Apparently, David was sensible on this trip and went to bed early most nights!
Here are some details taken by dictation: “On the way out in the morning we went to the Snake Park and Maasai museum. Then we got to the campsite. The first afternoon was going to a Datoga village, going inside a house and learning about them. The house was made of mud and smelled like a cow because it was made of cow poop. Then early in the morning we went hunting with the Hadzabe and walked for two hours. Along the way, we ate fresh honey that they found from a baobab tree they had marked that had bees in it high up. Then we walked back and bought some souvenirs. Then we had a bow contest, and the only kid who got it was Shedson who got a bow at the right level for him and could pull it back. The rest of us got bows that were too hard to pull back. Then we went to Ngorongoro the next day but we didn’t see any lions. We only saw 3 jackals, hippos, buffalo, wildebeest, and one hyena. It was a bit disappointing. Then we went to another Datoga house outside the crater, and we went to the Datoga blacksmiths and saw them make an arrowhead and a bracelet. They just took a nail, slammed the hammer a lot on the nail until it was a good shape, then they took some sharpened metal and made the arrowhead and added spikes in the arrowhead for monkeys. We had a talent show at the campsite and swam and then we came home the next day.”
My second hand shop |
Nay's purchases |
We also learned of some great sorrow on our team in
Ethiopia. Our accountant Eyerusalem is due to be married on July 4, but her
mother passed away over the weekend. On top of that, her fiancé was meant to
arrive on Monday from Zambia, but he also got caught up in this visa problem
and couldn’t travel without doing a similar process to us. And in addition,
another staff member has a mother in critical condition with a respiratory
illness. Our hearts were heavy for our colleagues, even as we were trying to wrap
things up on our side.
In the evenings that week, there was also the opportunity for some last meals with friends. On Tuesday, John and Mary Israel invited us to share a Pakistani dinner with them at a local restaurant. We enjoyed hearing more about their mission initiatives, school decisions for their kids, and reminiscing about good times we’ve shared in church, and playing Ultimate Frisbee on our compound. On Wednesday, we met our former colleagues Chrispin and Lucia at Gymkhana. It’s wonderful how our relationships with each other have grown over the past four years of working together—it’s not a given that it’s fun to meet socially with one’s colleagues, but we really enjoy each other – and we were all regretting that we were not granted more time to develop the Tanzania program together. On Thursday evening, we had a final “resident dinner” on the Joshua Compound. Again, it was a very meaningful evening, around an outdoor fire, sharing our appreciation for one another as neighbors over the past four years. I was sorry that the kids were not with us that night because Oren has become very much part of the adult conversation with that group of neighbors, and David loves playing with the new neighbor kids.
On Friday evening, our children returned to us from their various trips. Things were a bit discombobulated with uncertain arrival times for each of them but in the end, we collected them from school and went to grab a quick dinner out at a restaurant at the mall near our house. When we got home, I was intending to spend several hours finally working on packing, and I realized that my phone was no longer in my possession. With horror, I realized that I had left it behind at the mall! We called my number and a man answered to say that he had found my phone (and driving license) and that we could pick it up from him in the morning when he came back to work. I was pretty stressed about it all night, but in the end, we managed to recover it, and that guy got a big thank you gift from us! It underlined to me how essential it is to have one’s phone in a time of transition.
bible study farewell |
Bible study farewell |
I was glad to have one more Sunday at our church, doing
what I nearly always have been doing – taking a taxi early to do something or
other for the service. This time, our friend Neil invited me to play music with
him one last time, and I was glad to do it as long as I could just show up and
practice on the morning of. There were some tears as we said final farewells to
a few people after the service and then headed back home. Nay came with her children
to say a farewell to us in the afternoon. Her kids had wanted to give gifts to
our kids, and soon they were parading around in Maasai shukas and practicing
with the Hadzabe bow David had bought on his field trip. At 4 pm we transitioned
into playing our ultimate game of Ultimate Frisbee with the neighbors and a few
friends from outside the compound. Again, it was a tough game, and the speed of
the younger folk seemed to overwhelm the skill of some of the adults. I’m so
glad we were able to establish this tradition while we have been in Tanzania –
it took the place of the folk dances that we once hosted in Burundi, an active
social opportunity that brings various people together to enjoy each other’s
company in a unique way. And our growing boys have enjoyed frisbee a whole lot
more than dancing, and are both really quite good at the game now. We left our
frisbees with the neighbors and made them Admins of the WhatsApp group so that
they might summon a game at some point in the future.
Picturesque 18th hole on an island |
We needed one final “normal” evening at home after
school. Oren and I took that 5k walk down the road in the evening and had a
good chance to talk about random things. I’ve really been glad to live in a
place where it’s been easy to get our boys out to walk and talk with us.
Hopefully, we will still find a way to do that in a more crowded, busy city.
After dinner, I decided to work on packing until after midnight and found that
we were going to need a bigger boat, i.e. more suitcases. I definitely had to
get our house in a condition where Nay could clean most of the bedrooms with
the vacuum cleaner so that I could pack the vacuum into a suitcase!
Tuesday involved some errands (particularly delivering kids’ Lego sets to people who had bought them on WhatsApp – I should get a commission for that!) And then preparation for Oren’s birthday party. We couldn’t imagine how to have a birthday party at home since we had no home. So we invited two families of friends to join us as one of our favorite Arusha restaurants, George’s Tavern. Oren had a table of four teenagers, David had a table of four Taylor age mates, and we enjoyed a table of six adults and good conversation. Again, it was one of the most relaxed and joyful evenings we’ve had in a long time. We had many good laughs at Paul’s Indian puffy-sleeved shirt with strange, oversized pockets sewn a little too low. It looked great with a vest over it, but when the vest was unzipped, it was clear why he was wearing it as an item of clothing to leave behind!
Oren's birthday |
Many of us had ordered a particular dish that turned out to be unavailable, so the manager, Festo, showered us with appetizers on the house. Interesting how we got to know him well two years ago when our volunteer’s backpack was stolen at that restaurant, but that’s part of how relationships are formed. Towards the end, all the restaurant staff paraded our sad little store-bought cake out to present to Oren, complete with a festive version of “Jambo Bwana.” He was embarrassed, but it was very fun. Honestly, it was probably the best kind of birthday party for a kid turning 16. We really hope to see these good friends again when we come back to Tanzania for a visit, or maybe even in Maryland, (one family originates from the same county as my parents).
And our last two days were a flurry of packing, cleaning, final disposal of trash (or treasure?), and a very late night of final packing. It’s amazing how much stuff one can accumulate in just four years –but honestly, we had started bringing a lot of our specialized camping and hiking gear over to this side of the ocean in a series of trips from the US, since this is where we intend to live and enjoy life for many years. We’d also invested in things like an electric piano (sold at the 11th hour when it was too large for air luggage and Cargo turned out to be too expensive) and a basketball backstop when we anticipated 4 more years in Tanzania. It’s just a real pain to now have to move most of it onward to another country, in a single trip. And the grand total of goods included 2 suitcases left for a colleague to bring in October or later, 2 suitcases of camping gear, and a set of golf clubs left with the Taylors in anticipation of a Tanzanian holiday, and 11 big suitcases coming with us on the plane. In desperation on Wednesday afternoon, I was out of suitcases and still had a pile of clothes to pack, so I found an old canvas cargo shipping bag, lined it with a garbage bag, and stuffed all kinds of last-minute things inside. We gave away at least half of our clothes, but still, there were household goods we didn’t want to re-buy in Ethiopia, so it was kind of worth the extra baggage. And then, with a big send-off from our neighbors and Lucia and Chrispin, we departed for the airport on Thursday afternoon.
It’s all a bit surreal, as I sit in a new home on Saturday morning finishing this blog, basically, all unpacked, and try to take it in. This is now our new home. It’s not a visit or temporary situation. We will need to grow and adapt and learn to love a new place.
Last view of Kili from the plane. |
We will be leaving this blog site and moving full time to our Ethiopia blog which we have already begun as we have been in transition for several months. To follow us in the future, you can go to: https://pamosleyet.blogspot.com/
A few more bonus photos
Tramp's last day with us |
David with his awesome music teacher, Mr. Kalule |
With Katie, S and Lena |
Patrick, Paul and Mike |
David and buddies |
Saturday, June 19, 2021
Grueling Luxury: Summitting Kilimanjaro
I do not have a bucket list. Therefore the question "Why does a man climb a mountain?" is pertinent, and the answer "Because it's there" is certainly a necessary, but not an entirely sufficient condition for making the effort. In my case, Rebecca's suggestion of doing it as a way to do something final and unique to Tanzania that will not be affordable after we lose our residence permits, and our desperate need for some time together after nearly four months apart and living in two separate countries during this transition, was probably the reason that pushed us to a decision. There were factors that we had to take into consideration. This is not normally an ideal time of year. It is winter in Tanzania right now and coming to the end of the big rainy season. The prospect of climbing wet in clouds and sub-zero temperatures was a risk we would have to take.
Preparation was another matter. Our first consideration was what to do with the kids. They had school during the only week we could plan to go and Oren was finishing the last of his 'O' levels. Our kids are day students at a boarding school so a quick inquiry about possible short-term boarding was given a positive reply, and we then psyched (and bribed) them into accepting the idea. They were not thrilled, but since they have been at the school for four years and are well known, they were not entirely traumatized by the prospect.
Kilimanjaro protea |
Fortunately, we had a fair number of the items on the long equipment list needed: Oren had tried the ascent the year before with a school group, and we had invested in some gear for him. Our predecessors in Ethiopia also left some awesome daypacks complete with camel water tanks that we brought back for the trek. The tour company rep. insisted that we come up to the town of Moshi the evening before our trek began to go through a final equipment check and to meet our guide.
Moorland chameleon |
From Londorosi gate we drove to Lemosho gate where our trek officially began.
Day 1:
Day 1 is planned as a relatively short day. For one thing, there is a fair amount of driving and processing at the Londorosi gate, so you don't really get underway until after lunch. The hike is about seven kilometers through a temperate rainforest. The hike starts about 7000 feet so it is not really warm under the shade of the trees. We were fortunate as it was cloudy, and we were hiking through the cloud layer but did not have rain. There is an abundance of beautiful and unusual flora as well as colobus and blue monkeys and many species of birds. We were hoping to see the very rare Hartlaub's turaco, a large bird I have only glimpsed once before from a great distance during our Meru trek last year. Their incredibly loud call belies their ability to completely elude being seen. They tend to hide in thick leafed trees and are completely green except when they fly and reveal bright crimson underwings.Black and white colobus monkey |
Our seven-kilometer hike ended in the evening at a camp called Mti Mkubwa (big tree). Our porters and cook ran ahead of us and already had our tent set up with our mattresses down and gear inside. There was also a mess tent with two chairs and a table, already set with hot beverages and popcorn. It was always amazing to arrive to a completely set-up campsite. Dinner came after we had some water to wash and did some unpacking for the evening. Dinner was always a multicourse meal beginning with soup and always included fresh fruit and vegetables. I felt like I was at very nice restaurant. Our food was also always delivered by one of the porters onto the table, like a waiter. We were not responsible for clean-up either. The paradox of being in a high-end restaurant in a very rustic setting was characteristic of a lot of the experiences we had on the trip--grueling luxury.
Alpine chat |
Day 2
Shira II Camp |
Meru above the clouds |
Our team: back row Vuvuzela, Enocki, Raimondi, Ola, Simon, Charles, Me and Paul. Front row: Juma, Daniel,Rashidi, Linus |
That night when we went to bed, the temperature dropped well below freezing. Our wash water froze solid by the next morning. Once again I was amazed to find that I was toasty warm in the polartech tent in my fiberfill sleeping bag.
Day 3:
Day 3 is an acclimatization day and involves a 12-13 km hike in which we climbed up to a place called Lava Tower Camp, an altitude of 15,200 feet (a bit higher than Mt. Meru). We had lunch there, then hike back down to a camp called Barranco, which is about the same altitude as Shira 2, but continues further around the south side of Kibo peak.The hike up to Lava Tower was quite exhausting, and you could feel the air was thinner. Once again, the cook and porters were waiting for us with the mess tent set up and hot tea waiting. After tea they served us some lunch, then while they packed back up, we started back down the other side of the point toward Barranco camp. We were told it was a shorter hike down than up, but it did not feel that way to us. In fact, the descent was very steep and difficult to do quickly. It felt that this day was at least as long as the day before, with less distance but far more work in changing altitude, going up and down about 6000 feet.
One thing we appreciated was the head porter, who, after making sure camp was set up, would come back down the path to meet us, and take Rebecca's backpack. It was very helpful, especially where there was a steep downhill descent that required poles and even hands to go down. The porter's nickname was Vuvuzela (named after those special horns used by South African football fans), and he was quite a character. He often also relieved the guides of the oxygen tank which they must carry with us the entire trek, in case we need it.Barranco camp was deep in a valley and felt steep in that none of it was level. This would be true of most camps at this point. It overlooked the valley where Arusha and Moshi were, and that night, the cloud layer disappeared and we could see the lights of the two towns perfectly. It was very cool to see considering that the valley was always shrouded in cloud by day.
Day 4:
Rebecca was dreading day 4. It began, after breakfast, with a very steep ascent of several thousand feet on a near cliff called the Barranco wall. It is like bouldering for a good distance and while not a technical climb, if you have any vertigo, you are going to have to deal with the fact that you can look down over 1000 feet as you are climbing up. It is very unnerving. With the help of Charles and Simon, Rebecca got up despite her severe vertigo. Thankfully, we felt the benefit of our daily strength training and didn't have difficulty with the actual climbing part. It was just the mental stress that was tough for Rebecca. (Hard to believe how quickly the porters do it with 25kgs on their backs or heads.)Barranco wall |
Another change was that we were finding more hikers at the camps were staying at we neared the base camp. Several routes join at Lava Tower and we could see there were a half dozen other groups (mostly small) that were now on the same route as us. I am sure that in seasons when there was no COVID it would have been quite crowded. Weather continued to be miraculously cloudless and dry.
Day 5 and 6:
Day 5 was not a long walking day in the morning. In fact it was only 4 kilometers between Karango and Barafu camp. Barafu is the basecamp for about 4 routes to summit Kilimanjaro. It is also 15,000 ft, the same elevation as Lava Tower and Mt. Meru, only this time we were staying up, not descending. Spending the afternoon there is a good test of whether you are going to get altitude sickness. It is also a hard camp to be at because there is no water there, so all water we had, had to be carried from Karanga. At this point we were way above the treeline and it is like volcanic desert, almost looks like you are on the moon. We also got our first view of Mawenzi, the smaller peak on the East side of Kilimanjaro, by this time we were well above it and looking down. We also begin to run short of fresh food at this point, although the meals were still delicious. At Barafu, after lunch, Charles told us to go lie down in the tent until we had a 5pm dinner in which he would brief us on the summitting. Then we were to sleep again until 10pm when we would be awakened to eat something before the summit. We followed the routine he laid out. Unfortunately, we had, for the first time during the trip, a real bad turn in the weather--WIND. Wind started whipping up mid afternoon and the intensity became alarming. Many gusts were over 80-100 kms per hour. I felt like our tent was gong to be yanked off the ground and pulled over a cliff with us in it. Fortunately that did not happen, although some tents did get blown down. This created a problem in terms of motivation to go out of the tent to the bathroom. At high altitude you really need to pee a lot more if you are drinking enough. As the wind whipped up, I stopped drinking a lot of water in the tent and began to feel dehydrated. Consequently I could not sleep. By 10pm when we got the wake up call, I had laid there for several hours, but no sleep.wind at Barafu Camp |
I honestly cannot say how I got through it. Climbing endlessly in total darkness (with a headlamp only) is surreal. I know Buddhists are fascinated with 'living in the moment' but if you want to really experience living in a perpetual, relentless 'present' with no awareness of past or future, just trudge up a steep slope behind the lighted boots of a leader, for hours on end. You lose all sense of time. I hummed the Taize song "Within our darkest night, you kindle the fire that never dies away" endlessly. Rebecca reported feeling that there was no reason not to take the next step, but there was no sense of when that would end.
At one point we did stop for a break. Stopping feels dangerous because you begin freezing as soon as you are not moving. But we chugged some frozen water quickly and ate a few bites of Gorp. I felt we had been hiking about two hours and I knew I had to give up. I had no energy in my legs. I was just about to say "I give up" when Vuvuzela said to Charles "Ni saa Kumi". I could not believe it! Saa Kumi (10th hour) is 4 in the morning! We had already hiked 5 hours. I knew that in an hour I would see the first hints of dawn over the horizon and I knew if I saw the light I could make it. (I often thought of Frodo and Samwise on Mt. Doom).Inside the crater |
snow on the crater rim |
Within the next 15 minutes we arrived at Stella Point, about 6:20am. Stella Point is not the summit, but it does open onto the lip of the crater, so you are on top of the mountain, but not the highest point. It is considered to be 'summitting' as you are able to look onto the shallow crater at the top. But along one side of the crater is a ridge that rises several hundred more feet where Uhuru Peak is. The true summit of the mountain.
Although you can see Uhuru from Stella point, distances are deceptive. It looked like a short walk, but Charles said it would take another hour to arrive there. One reason is how slowly you need to walk. At this point you are above 19,000 feet and the air is noticeably thin. You feel breathless pretty quickly and cannot go fast, especially up hill. Fortunately the sun was out in full force and although freezing cold, it did feel warmer and it was cloudless on the peak. (Still the blanket of clouds 9000 feet below.)Climbing to the peak requires crossing some snow which seems to be sitting on a glacier. There are numerous glaciers on the summit with very strange shapes, quite beautiful. Rebecca, by this time was really exhausted. Despite that we did manage to trudge to Uhuru peak with the encouragement of our guides. There were about a half dozen other sumitters there when we arrived. All were exuberant. Rebecca broke into tears in disbelief at having made it. (Tears also for leaving Tanzania, and for the realization that once you reach the roof of Africa, you also have to get back down in your exhausted state...)We stayed a few minutes and took pictures. The cold and thin air does not make this an inviting place to hang out, or have a meal. Getting down is also a challenge as the descent path is even steeper than the ascent. Fortunately Vuvuzela held Rebecca by the elbow to keep her from slipping down the snow, and then the miles of scree (small volcanic stones) back to base camp. What we won slowly in 7 hours we descended in less than 3. You can almost ski down the scree, and descending feels much easier, especially as the increase in oxygen is palpable with each foot you go down.
Descending looking toward Mawenzi peak |
Barafu camp from above |
Day 7:
The last day was no less grueling than any of the others. We still had to descend about 14 kilometers to the Mweka gate where our daladala was waiting. It turned out to be the worst day for Rebecca as the descent was steep and sometimes treacherous. When we went back through the rain forest this time, it had recently rained and we walked for miles in thick, slippery mud. Our boots were caked. Worse for Rebecca were her boots that for some reason did not protect her toes during the descent. At the bottom, when she took her shoes off there were multiple enormous blisters on every toe, some almost entirely engulfing the toe. So it was harder to enjoy the beauties of the cloud forest on the way down.
It was a great relief to finally get to the gate. The total distance of our trek was about 70km (50 miles). We were pretty dead by then. From there we drove back into town for a debrief at the Monkey Adventures office, then back to the hotel where we disbursed the very much appreciated tips. For the most part, like waiters in the US, the team depends on tips to provide a descent wage for the trip. The Monkey Adventures website provides guidelines, but it needs to be factored into the cost of the trip as a whole. It adds about $400 per person to the cost of the trip as a whole. But we felt it was wholehearedly deserved, as we felt we were treated like royalty the whole time.One real blessing for us was being able to speak Kiswahili. It is very unusual that tourists sumitting can speak to guides, the cooks, and porters in their native language. We got to know all of their names and learned a lot. Charles drew most of his team from Arusha where he is from, in an area called Ilboro. Like us, they go to a Lutheran church there, and we have actually been to the Lutheran Cathedral in Ilboro where they pray.
Charles our guide |
I remain amazed by the paradox of what is a very expensive safari, in which you pay big bucks to freeze, trudge, and then do what feels like a forced march up a hill in total darkness. And at the same time, at the beginning and end of each day, be treated like a King served delicious hot food and drink before and after the grueling activities of the day.
Can I recommend this? Cautiously, yes. Although it would be worth considering the wonder of the whole experience rather than making sumitting the entire goal. No one was more surprised than the two of us that we actually made it to the top. We wanted time together, away from all internet, etc. to share an experience. We were not counting on the summit as the 'meaning' of the adventure. We enjoyed seven days of seeing some of the most sublime views on the planet, and we will never forget that. We were beyond lucky as far as weather goes. Endless days of cloudless sky (above the treeline). I don't know if we could have made it if we had had 7 straight days of rain and snow (as happens some times according to Charles.)Hopefully this account will give others some idea of what such an adventure is like, and a way to preserve the memory for us.
We are now down to our last 2 weeks in Tanzania and have one more mountain to climb--packing and selling all of the stuff in our house and getting our family to Addis by July 1st.
Kibo from the Mweka path |
Farewell to our team |